This is a very non-scientific method!! Take this anecdote for what it’s worth, but here is an update to my original post about the Synology box in my fireproof safe. Notes: safe has been opened at least every few days, the AC is running at times in my home, the windows open others. So just my observations, not a bulletproof study by all means.
I have been running the Synology two bay disk station in my Liberty safe for about 6 months now. Here in Michigan we are into the summer warmer months. I’ve included two charts of the internal disk temp and the temp inside my home for the past 60 days. The safe seems to be large enough to circulate the air and keep the temp within normal spec. I’m confident enough to keep this setup running as is year round as the NAS hardware and drives seem to be just fine.
Disk Sensor (this disk usually tends to run a degree warmer)
Home temp sensor from the Accurite weather station
I recently added a small Synology DS216j NAS to my home network. This gives me some more options for my VMware server and general storage for backup. I configured the Synology box with a RAID1 mirror of two 3TB Seagate Ironwolf drives.
I own a safe that has power, ethernet and USB pass through. I wanted to the NAS inside the safe, but my concern was airflow and temperature. I’ve read some forums telling me this was a terrible idea, but no real world data. From what I’ve researched my safe lets some air in/out around the door until it’s in a fire where in that time the door seal would expand. The safe is roughly 60x30x26″- just over 31 cubic feet, which I hope is enough to keep the temperature down. I may open the safe once every couple days, but generally the door is closed.
I’m about three weeks in with this setup and performance has been great, temperature does not seem to be a concern. I have a full Zoneminder VM running off a NFS share and my Macbook using this as a time machine vault. I’ve included some graphs from PRTG monitoring the temperature. Drives have been hovering around 30C (86F). I keep my home around 22C (71F) right now in mid winter. I will try to update this post in the summer to see if there is any impact.
Internal Temp Monitor – Constant 40 degrees Celsius
cable management could be a little nicer
I’ve been troubleshooting a Marlin 336 chambered in .35 Remington from the 1950s for over a year now. This firearm has taken a lot of deer in the Michigan woods over the past 40 years, but otherwise isn’t shot other than those 15 days in November.
Occasionally there would be a click but no bang. It appears that there is a good dent in the primer, sometimes a re-strike with the hammer would do it. But it seems to be getting worse. I’ve replaced the firing pin with a single piece, the extractor, hammer spring. All things that if you google for the issue are recommended to solve this solution.
Most likely because the 35 Remington is prone to headspace issues due to the very small shoulder the rifle needs to be headspaced, but I didn’t want to deal with that just yet.
Finally I came across an article by M.L. McPherson that suggested to load with large pistol primers instead of large rifle primers. McPherson has wrote books and many articles on smithing and reloading.
“In my opinion, all .35 Remington handloads for the Marlin should use CCI Large Pistol primers. Due to the relatively low-striker energy, pistol primers give more uniform ballistics, and such modest charges of easily ignited propellants do not require rifle primers.”
I loaded up some 200gr Hornady over IMR 4895 with a large pistol primer.
This seems to have finally done the trick. 100% success rate with these loads.
158gr XTPs over 15.5grains of H-110